Leave-on penetrating oil hair composition

ABSTRACT

The present disclosure relates to leave-on penetrating oil hair compositions that comprise a blend of non-cyclic silicone and non-silicone ingredients. The leave-on penetrating oil hair compositions, which do not contain D4, D5 or D6 silicones, are particularly useful in methods for imparting durable resistance to breaking, frizz control, shine and/or volume definition with a soft feel to hair.

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The present disclosure relates to compositions for treating or stylinghair.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

Silicones, which are a class of polymers with a chemical structure basedon chains of alternate silicon and oxygen atoms, with organic groupsattached to the silicon atoms, have been useful and versatile cosmeticingredients. They range in viscosity from volatile liquids to solidpastes and have been used as emollients that provide unique sensorialproperties, hair conditioning agents, emulsifiers and for the surfacetreatment of pigments. Siloxanes are functional groups that have amolecular structure based on a chain of alternate silicon and oxygenatoms, especially (as in silicone) with organic groups attached to thesilicon atoms. Cyclic siloxanes (cyclosiloxanes) are basic members ofthe broad family of silicone materials. All silicone materials sharecommon chemistry but each substance is different when it comes to itsproperties and use.

Among the large family of siloxanes, cyclomethicone is a generic namefor a cyclic siloxane with a general formulation of(CH₃)_(2n)O_(n)Si_(n), where n=3−7. Examples include D4 (n=4, INCI:cyclotetrasiloxane); D5 (n=5, INCI: cyclopentasiloxane); and D6 (n=6;INCI: cyclohexasiloxane).

A common denominator for cyclosiloxanes is that they contain repeatingunits of silicone (Si) and oxygen (O) atoms in a closed loop, giving ita “cyclic” structure.

This also gives cyclosiloxanes their unique properties as hybridinorganic-organic substances. D4, D5 and D6, which contain 4, 5 and 6repeating units respectively, (see FIGS. 1a-1c ), are the three maincyclosiloxanes used in commercial production. D4, D5 and D6 are eachodorless, colorless liquids that are mostly used as an intermediate orbasic raw material in the production of silicone rubbers, gels andresins. When used as an intermediate during the manufacturing process,virtually all of D4, D5 and D6 are consumed with only a tiny amountremaining in final products.

Generally, siloxanes are well tolerated by human organisms. However, thedegree of polymerization, format of the polymer (linear or cyclic), andmolecular weight can affect the toxicity of this group of chemicals.

These ingredients have wide applications in cosmetic products such asemollient, humectant, solvent, viscosity control and hair conditioning.

However, concerns have been raised about their toxicity and effects onthe environment.

In an assessment published in 2016 (SCCS/1549/15), the ScientificCommittee on Consumer Safety (SCCS), an independent scientific committeethat provides the European Commission with scientific advice,recommended that impurities of D4 and D5 should be kept as low aspossible.

It is now required that the concentration of D4, D5 and D6 in somecosmetic products placed on the European market be less than 0.1% byweight.

U.S. Published Application No. 20180303744 to Covestro Deutschland AGdiscloses the use of a cosmetic composition that comprises awater-dispersible polyurethane for the treatment of human hair.

U.S. Published Application No. 20150297485 to Evonik Industries AGdiscloses a composition that comprises at least one esterificationproduct of at least one polyhydric alcohol and at least one fatty acid.The reference discloses that the composition, which is readily foamingand structured, has a high oil fraction.

IN295649B to BASF SE discloses cosmetic formulations that comprisecopolymers comprising N-vinylpyrrolidone and a hydrophobically modifiedacrylic acid derivative

U.S. Published Application No. 20100047296 to Henkel AG & Co. KGaAdiscloses an oil-in-water dispersion/emulsion cosmetic or dermatologicalstick compositions.

U.S. Pat. No. 10,555,893 to L'Oreal discloses a leave-on hair stylingcomposition that comprises beeswax; glucoside emulsifiers; ester oilsand/or emulsifying esters; water; monomeric polyols; and one or morefatty acids and/or fatty alcohols.

Smooth closer: The latest in silicones and silicone alternatives, Sep.4, 2019,https://www.cosmeticbusiness.com/news/article_page/Smooth_closer_The_latest_in_silicons_and_silicone_alternatives/157719,discloses silicones and silicone alternatives for use in personal care.The reference discloses that BASF's Cetiol C5 (INCI: Coco caprylate),Cetiol CC (INCI: Dicapryl carbonate) and Cetiol Ultimate (INCI:Undecane, tridecane), are potential emollients that can be used. Thereference also discloses that dimethicone can be used.

A need exists for alternatives to D4, D5 and D6 that are of low cost;stable at room temperature; and that provide good performance.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

It is an object of the invention to provide a leave-on hair compositionthat moisturizes the hair and scalp.

It is another object of the invention to provide a leave-on haircomposition the prevents damage from surfactants such as sodium laurylsulfate that are in most shampoos.

It is a further object of the invention to provide a leave-on haircomposition that promotes a healthy scalp in between shampooing.

It is yet a further object of the invention to provide a leave-on haircomposition that moisturizes the hair and scalp.

It is a further object of the invention to provide a leave-on haircomposition that promotes properties such as, but not limited to, frizzcontrol; breakage resistance; shine; volume; reduced split ends; andcurl definition.

To accomplish the above and related objects, the invention is embodiedin the accompanying description. Variations are contemplated as beingpart of the invention, limited only by the scope of the claims.

The invention is a hair composition that is useful for nourishing hairthat comprises a blend of non-cyclic silicone and non-siliconeingredients. The hair composition delivers the benefit of making hairsmooth and manageable while not too sticky when applied as a leave-on.The composition, which is free of cyclic silicones such as D4, D5 and D6silicones, exhibits superior benefits to hair compared to haircompositions having volatile silicones.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

FIGS. 1a-1c show the chemical structure of D4 (FIG. 1a ), D5 (FIG. 1b )and D6 (FIG. 1c ), respectively.

FIG. 2 is a graph showing scalp moisturization evaluated with DermaLab.

FIG. 3 is an image showing volume/frizz-volume imaging.

FIG. 4 is a photograph showing suppleness using a Zwick Roell testingmachine, Kennesaw, Ga.

FIG. 5a is a graph showing wet sensory assessment on medium bleachedcaucasian hair.

FIG. 5b is a graph showing dry sensory assessment on medium bleachedcaucasian hair.

FIG. 6a is a graph showing wet sensory assessment on Brazilian curlyhair.

FIG. 6b is a graph showing dry sensory assessment on Brazilian curlyhair.

FIG. 7 is a graph showing the percentage change in luster comparingLight Oil composition of the invention and Light Oil Benchmark atdifferent time points.

FIG. 8 is a photograph showing visual shine comparison of Light Oilcomposition of the invention with Light Oil Benchmark after 24 hrs.

FIG. 9 is a graph showing frizz volume comparison between Light Oilcomposition of the invention and Light Oil Benchmark at differenttreatment conditions.

FIG. 10 is a photograph showing comparison of hair tresses between LightOil composition of the invention and Light Oil Benchmark.

FIG. 11 is a graph showing Fmax (Maximum Force) and Fmean (Mean Force)to pull hair tresses through Zwick comparison between Light Oilcomposition of the invention and Light Oil Benchmark.

FIG. 12 is a graph showing comparison hair breakage [%] between LightOil composition of the invention and Light Oil Benchmark.

FIG. 13 are images showing split-ends of hair treated with Light Oilcomposition of the invention and with Light Oil Benchmark at differentmagnifications.

FIGS. 14a and 14b are images showing visual comparison of black hairtreated with Serum composition of the invention v. Serum Benchmark (FIG.14a ) and Penetrating Oil composition of the invention v. PenetratingOil Benchmark (FIG. 14b ).

FIGS. 15a-15d are images showing visual comparison of frizzy black hairtreated with Serum composition of the invention v. Serum Benchmark andPenetrating Oil composition of the invention v. Penetrating OilBenchmark at T=0 (FIG. 15a ); T=4 hours (FIG. 15b ); .T=8 hours (FIG.15c ); and T=24 hours (FIG. 15d ).

FIG. 16 is a graph showing combing values for Penetrating Oil Benchmark,Penetrating Oil composition of the invention, Serum Benchmark and Serumcomposition of the invention, as measured using an Instron tensileinstrument.

FIG. 17 is a graph showing anti-breakage values (as assessed via hairloss) for untreated hair, hair treated with Serum composition of theinvention, Serum Benchmark, Penetrating Oil composition of the inventionand Penetrating Oil Benchmark.

FIGS. 18a and 18b are images showing hair treated with Penetrating Oilcomposition of the invention v. Penetrating Oil Benchmark (FIG. 18a )and Serum composition of the invention v. Serum Benchmark (FIG. 18b ),after combing.

FIG. 19 is a graph showing luster values for Penetrating Oil Benchmark,Penetrating Oil composition of the invention, Serum Benchmark and Serumcomposition of the invention.

FIG. 20a and FIG. 20b are images showing volume down for Penetrating OilBenchmark, Penetrating Oil composition of the invention, Serum Benchmarkand Serum composition of the invention.

FIG. 21a and FIG. 21b are graphs showing coefficient of friction (CoF)for Penetrating Oil Benchmark, Penetrating Oil composition of theinvention, Serum Benchmark and Serum composition of the invention withthe cuticle (FIG. 21a ) and against the cuticle (FIG. 21b ).

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

The ability of non-cyclic silicone and non-silicone oils to meet oroutperform D4, D5 and/or D6 in hair care compositions were assessed.

Definitions

Products

In terms of benefits to the hair, the leave-on hair compositions of theinvention are similar (i.e., all give shine, moisturization, etc.); themain difference among the product formats listed below is the viscosityand application process.

Hair Oils

Hair oils lubricate the hair and can penetrate the cuticles, causingchanges to the hair structure by adding fatty acids to replace thelipids in hair. Hair oils can be applied at various stages of the haircare process, including during blow drying or diffusing, as an overnighttreatment and even before washing as a rinse-out treatment.

-   -   Light Oil is thinner and generally used in a sprayable bottle.        Light Oils have little to no hair penetration.    -   Penetrating Oil is more viscous than light oil and generally not        sprayable. Penetrating Oils have high penetration.

Hair Serum

Hair serums generally work best when they are applied to wet hair.Serums work by sealing the cuticles and fusing with hair strands tocreate a lasting protective layer.

-   -   Serum is more viscous than light oil and not sprayable. Serums,        which sit on the outside of the cuticle, generally don't        penetrate hair.

The viscosities affect consumer perception and to achieve thisnecessarily a different combination of ingredients is needed for eachproduct format.

Ingredients

The ingredients below that contain silicon (Si) are non-cyclic siliconeingredients and the ingredients below that do not contain silicon arenon-silicone ingredients.

C₁₂₋₁₅ alkyl benzoate is an ester of a mixture of C₁₂ to C₁₅ primary andbranched alcohols and benzoic acid.

Coco-caprylate caprate is the caprylic/capric acid ester of saturatedfatty alcohol C₁₂₋₁₈.

Dimethicone is a linear silicone polymer having the molecular formulaC₈H₂₄O₂Si₃.

Isododecene is an acyclic alkane having the molecular formula C₁₂H₂₆.

Isopropyl myristate is the ester of isopropyl alcohol and myristic acidhaving the molecular formula C₁₇H₃₄O₂.

Octyldodecanol is a long chain fatty alcohol having the molecularformula C₂₀H₄₂O.

Propylheptyl caprylate is a linear alkyl ester having the molecularformula C₁₈H₃₆O₂.

Additional non-cyclic silicone ingredients that may be employed andtheir properties are disclosed in U.S. Pat. No. 10,105,292 to L'Oreal,the entire contents of which are incorporated by reference herein. Thereference discloses that these ingredients have the followingproperties:

-   -   A molecular weight between 500 and 100,000 g/mol; a viscosity at        25° C. ranging from 4 to 5000 mm²/s, more preferred from 4 to        1000 mm²/s and even more preferred from 4 to 200 mm²/s. The        reference discloses that the “kinematic viscosity at 25° C. raw        product CID-012-01” or the “Ubbelohde viscosity at 25° C. DIN        51562-1 PVO4001” method may be employed to measure molecular        weight.    -   A refractive index of greater than 1.3 and especially less than        1.6.    -   The general formula (I) below:

-   -   with: R₁, which may be identical or different, representing: i)        a linear or branched (C₁-C₂₀) alkyl group, particularly a linear        or branched C₁-C₆ group, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl;        or ii) a hydroxyl group; R₂ representing: i) a linear or        branched (C₁-C₂₀) alkyl group optionally interrupted and/or        terminated with a heteroatom such as O, S or N; in        particular, i) is a linear or branched C₁-C₆ alkyl group, such        as methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl; ii) a group        (C₁-C₉)(poly)haloalkyl, especially perfluoroalkyl, comprising        from 1 to 9 halogen atoms, particularly fluorine, such as        trifluoromethyl; and iii) the polysiloxane group        —O—[Si(R₁)₂—O]n′-Si(R₁)₃ with R₁ as defined previously; R′₁        representing a radical R₁ or R₂ as defined previously; m being        an integer inclusively between 0 and 150 and preferably between        20 and 100; n and n′, which may be identical or different, being        an integer inclusively between 1 and 300 and preferably between        1 and 100.

Preferably, the non-cyclic silicone ingredient(s) in accordance with theinvention is(are) present in a content ranging from about 10% to about98% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the non-cyclic silicone ingredient(s) in accordance with theinvention is(are) present in a leave-on light oil hair composition in acontent ranging from about 10% to about 25%, more preferably about 12%,by weight relative to the total weight of the leave-on light oil haircomposition.

Preferably, the non-cyclic silicone ingredient(s) in accordance with theinvention is(are) present in a leave-on penetrating oil hair compositionin a content ranging from about 30% to about 80%, more preferably about75%, by weight relative to the total weight of the leave-on penetratingoil hair composition.

Preferably, the non-cyclic silicone ingredient(s) in accordance with theinvention is(are) present in a leave-on serum hair composition in acontent ranging from about 85% to about 99.5%, more preferably about95%, by weight relative to the total weight of the leave-on penetratingoil hair composition.

Additional non-silicone ingredients that may be employed and theirproperties are disclosed in U.S. Pat. No. 10,105,292 to L'Oreal, theentire contents of which are incorporated by reference herein. Thereference discloses that these ingredients:

-   -   May be made of hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin such as        triglyceride esters, which are generally fatty acid triesters of        glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths        varying from C₄ to C₂₄, wherein the chains may be linear or        branched, and saturated or unsaturated; wherein the oils include        wheatgerm oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil,        corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive        oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil,        cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa        oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, marrow oil, blackcurrant oil,        evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye        oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passion-flower oil and musk        rose oil; or caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for example        those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold        under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit        Nobel, (ii) synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon        atoms; (iii) linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or        synthetic origin, such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes,        hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, and squalane, and        mixtures thereof; (iv) synthetic esters, for example the oils of        formula RCOOR′ in which R represents a linear or branched fatty        acid residue comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R′        represents a hydrocarbon-based chain that is especially        branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, on condition        that R+R′≥10, for example purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate),        isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C₁₂ -C₁₅ alkyl        benzoate, for example the product sold under the trade name        Finsolv TN or Witconol TN by the company Witco or Tegosoft TN by        the company Evonik Goldschmidt, 2-ethyl phenyl benzoate, for        example the commercial product sold under the name X-Tend 226 by        the company ISP, isopropyl lanolate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl        adipate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, 2-ethylhexyl        palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, alcohol or polyalcohol        octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, for example propylene        glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters, for example isostearyl        lactate, diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters;        citrates or tartrates, for example linear C₁₂-C₁₃ dialkyl        tartrates, such as those sold under the name Cosmacol ETI by the        company Enichem Augusta Industriale, and also linear C₁₄-C₁₅        dialkyl tartrates such as those sold under the name Cosmacol ETL        by the same company; acetates; (v) fatty alcohols that are        liquid at room temperature, containing a branched and/or        unsaturated carbon-based chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon        atoms, for example octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl        alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol or        2-undecylpentadecanol; (vi) higher fatty acids such as oleic        acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid; (vii) carbonates such as        dicaprylyl carbonate, for example the product sold under the        name Cetiol CC by the company Cognis; (viii) fatty amides, for        example isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate, for example the product        sold under the trade name Eldew SL205 from Ajinomoto; and        mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the non-silicone ingredient(s) in accordance with theinvention are present in a content ranging from about 2% to about 90% byweight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the non-silicone ingredients in accordance with theinvention are present in a leave-on light oil hair composition in acontent ranging from about 75% to about 90%, more preferably about 88%,by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the non-silicone ingredients in accordance with theinvention are present in a leave-on penetrating oil hair composition ina content ranging from about 20% to about 70%, more preferably about25%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the non-silicone ingredients in accordance with theinvention are present in a leave-on serum hair composition in a contentranging from about 0.5% to about 15%, more preferably about 5%, byweight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Technical Terms

Kinematic viscosity is a measure of a fluid's internal resistance toflow under gravitational forces.

Tensile strength is the ability of a material to resistbreaking/tearing.

A tensile test applies tensile (pulling) force to a material andmeasures the specimen's response to the stress. By doing this, tensiletests determine how strong a material is and how much it can elongate.

An Ubbelohde type viscometer or suspended-level viscometer is ameasuring instrument which uses a capillary based method of measuringviscosity. The advantage of this instrument is that the values obtainedare independent of the total volume.

Statistical Methods

Paired Student t test consist of a sample of matched pairs of similarunits, or one group of units that has been tested twice.

Shapiro-Wilk Test is a test of normality in frequentist statistics.Normality tests are used to determine if a data set is well-modeled by anormal distribution and to compute how likely it is for a randomvariable underlying the data set to be normally distributed.

Turkey's Test is a single-step multiple comparison procedure andstatistical test. It can be used to find means that are significantlydifferent from each other.

Wilcoxon Signed Rank Test is a non-parametric statistical hypothesistest used to compare two related samples, matched samples, or repeatedmeasurements on a single sample to assess whether their population meanranks differ.

EXAMPLES

Leave-on hair compositions free of the direct addition of cyclicsilicones such as cyclotetrasiloxane (D4), cyclopentasiloxane (D5) andcyclohexasiloxane (D6) have been developed. The compositions meetconsumer expectations for aesthetics; are cost effective; and meetglobal compliance requirements.

The following product formats were assessed:

-   -   1) Light Oil    -   2) Penetrating Oil    -   3) Serum

Prototypes of each product format with acceptable appearance parity tothe respective benchmarks were further evaluated in accordance withbelow:

-   -   1-week stability at 5° C. and 60° C. at room temperature (RT);    -   Appearance (physical conditions, for example, color, odor,        shape) at 24 hours (h) and at 1-week;    -   Lubrication (measured by wet and dry combing in in-vitro—tresses        test); and    -   Cost.

Final prototypes were selected and the following tests were conducted:

-   -   Stability according to the requirements below:        -   3 months at 5° C.±3° C.: used as Control for comparison of            appearance (physical conditions, for example, color, odor,            shape);        -   3 months at 25° C.±2° C/60%±5% RH (physical conditions,            initial and 3 months);        -   3 months and 6 months at 40° C.±2° C/75%±5%RH (physical            conditions at 1, 3 and 6 months);        -   1 month at 50° C. (physical conditions at 1 month).    -   In-vitro Tests        -   Frizz Control (Caucasian and textured hair) at high humidity            -   Deliverable: Pictures at 0 h, 4 h, 8 h, and 24 h        -   Combing (wet and dry)            -   Deliverable: graphs showing % reduction in total work                before and after treatment        -   Resist breakage caused by brushing and styling (antibreakage            test)            -   Deliverable: graphs showing % reduction in total                breakage before and after treatment        -   Shine            -   Deliverable: Panel testing or Samba measurements        -   Volume (image analysis)            -   Deliverable: Image analysis results and panel testing        -   Improved split-ends (SEM)            -   Deliverable: SEM images

Table 1 shows some properties imparted to hair that were assessed.

TABLE 1 Test Conditions Deliverables 1. Frizz Control Frizz control onCaucasian, Pictures at 0 h, 4 h, 8 h, and 24 h (Caucasian, texturedtextured hair - conducted at room hair) temperature (RT) and highhumidity (80%). (3 samples/test) 2. Combing (dry***) Dry combing only.Data/graphs showing % reduction in total work before and after treatment3. Resist breakage Caucasion straight hair, 10,000 cycles Picture andgraphs showing % reduction in caused by brushing and total breakagebefore and after treatment styling (antibreakage test) 4. Shine SAMBAmeasurements SAMBA measurements (SAMBA Hair System, Bona Nova Vision,Los Angeles, CA) 5. Volume Pictures to confirm volume down Pictures at 0h, 4 h, 8 h, and 24 h effect. Hair type Caucasian, straight slightlybleached 6. Improved splits-ends SEM images after resistance to Imagescomparing split ends of the various (to be tested after anti- breakagestudy complete. formulations. breakage) 7. Moisturization of Dryfriction test to measure smoothness Data or pictures showing reductionof positional hair or water droplet test to show coefficient of frictionCoF results (deposition) hydrophobicity.

The following tests were conducted to test a Light Oil composition ofthe invention formula against a Light Oil Benchmark and a control (hairwithout treatment) (Control).

-   -   1) Moisturization—Evaluated by sensory trained panel.    -   2) Shine—Assessed using SAMBA.    -   3) Softness—Evaluated by sensory trained panel.    -   4) Anti-breakage/strength the hair/split ends—Evaluated using        repeated combing and split end quantification. Visualized split        end repair using HiRox 3D Digital Microscope, HiRox, Hackensack,        N.J.    -   5) Weightless—Evaluated by sensory trained panel (no residues        evaluation).    -   6) Anti-frizz/curl definition—Evaluated in humidity chamber.        Brazilian curly hair assessed to visualize frizz volume/curl        definition.    -   7) Volume—Evaluated with images before and after as part of        sensory evaluation.

Below is a summary of all results of the tests with Light Oilcomposition of the invention.

-   -   Has superior sensory performance in comparison to Light Oil        Benchmark in providing good substantivity and moisturization on        both bleached hair and Brazilian curly hair. Additionally,        provides significantly more smoothness and strongly preferred on        Brazilian curly hair.    -   Provided significantly longer-lasting shine over Light Oil        Benchmark.    -   Exhibited excellent anti-fizz benefits when compared to Light        Oil Benchmark and holds significantly better definition of the        curls even after exposure to high humidity.    -   Imparted significantly better smoothness/suppleness over Light        Oil Benchmark which agrees with sensory evaluation.    -   Provided significantly lower hair breakage and less split-ends        when compared to Light Oil Benchmark.    -   Relative to the Control, Light Oil composition of the invention        showed 41.3% (p<0.05) significant improvement in scalp        moisturization after 5 minutes (immediate) application. Compared        to the Light Oil Benchmark, Light Oil composition of the        invention showed 21.0% (p<0.05) significantly more improvement        in scalp moisturization after 5 minutes (immediate) application.

In summary, Light Oil composition of the invention demonstrated betterimprovement in scalp moisturization efficacy than that of Light OilBenchmark.

EXAMPLE DETAILS

Light Oil Composition of the Invention

Scalp Moisturization

A study was conducted to evaluate the efficacy of Light Oil compositionof the invention on scalp moisturization against Light Oil Benchmark, 5minutes (immediately) and 24 hours after product application. It was ahemi-scalp, double-blind, and randomized study with 33 female volunteersaged 18-65 years old. Scalp moisturization was measured using theDermaLab Skinlabs 8-pin hydration probe.

Relative to the control, Light Oil composition of the inventiontreatment showed 41.3% (p<0.05) significant improvement in scalpmoisturization after 5 minutes (immediate) application.

Compared to Light Oil Benchmark, Light Oil composition of the inventionshowed 21.0% (p<0.05) significantly more improvement in scalpmoisturization after 5 minutes (immediate) application.

In summary, Light Oil composition of the invention demonstrated betterimprovement in scalp moisturization efficacy than that of Light OilBenchmark.

Materials and Methods

A randomized, double-blind study was conducted on the left and rightsides of the scalp.

Subjects must:

-   -   1. Be female, aged 18-65 years.    -   2. Consider themselves generally in good health.    -   3. Consider themselves to have a dry and itchy scalp.    -   4. Understand the test procedures and agree to adhere to all        study requirements.    -   5. Be willing to sign a study Informed Consent.

6. Be willing to disclose to the Lead Coordinator all of their currentmedications (both prescription and over the counter). For subjectstaking medications that the Lead Coordinator has determined to beacceptable for use during the study, the subject must have been takingthe medication on a consistent schedule for at least two months prior tostart of the study.

-   -   7. Be willing to advise to the Lead Coordinator of any changes        in the administration of any prescription or over the counter        medications that becomes necessary for any reason during the        study. This may result in subject being discontinued from the        study.    -   8. Be willing to abstain from drinking caffeinated beverages,        smoking and exercising on the day of the study measurements.    -   9. Be willing to discontinue use of any anti-dandruff, leave-on        conditioners, or scalp treatments starting seven days before        their first study visit and continuing for the duration of the        study.    -   10. Be willing to discontinue any chemical treatments on the        hair or scalp (i.e., chemical straightening, perm, hair color)        starting seven days before their first study visit and        continuing through the duration of the study.    -   11. Be willing to refrain from washing their hair for a 24-hour        period, in between the first and second study visits.

Subjects must not:

-   -   1. Be pregnant or breastfeeding or have intentions of becoming        pregnant at any time during the study.    -   2. Currently be under a physician's care for chronic illness,        disease or serious medical conditions.    -   3. Have known hypersensitivity or allergies to personal care        products, especially products that have moisturizing        ingredients.    -   4. Be participating in any other study pertaining to scalp as        the target area within the last four (4) weeks prior to the        start of the study.    -   5. Have undergone major surgery or plastic surgery in the study        area.

35 subjects participated in the study, with a total of 33 completing thestudy.

Tested Product

-   -   (1) Light Oil composition of the invention Light Oil Composition        of the Invention

Function Trade Name INCI Name Supplier % Weight Solvent Cetiol LC Coco-BASF qs up to Caprylate/Caprate 27.5 Skin Conditioning Ritamollient TN;Finsolv TN C12-15 Alkyl RITA/Innospec 2.50 Agent - Emolient (TegosoftTN2) Benzoate Skin Conditioning Permethyl 99A; Ritacane ID IsododecaneRITA 30.00 Agent - Emolient Fragrance Fragrance 0.50 Skin ConditioningXiameter PMX 200 Fluid 2 cSt Dimethicone Dow 5.00 Agent - Emolient SkinConditioning Xiameter 200 10 cst Dimethicone Dow 7.50 Agent - EmolientSkin Conditioning 76 Coconut Oil #550; RITA Cocos Nucifer RITA 2.00Agent - Occlusive Coconut Oil 76 (Coconut) Oil Skin Conditioning CetiolSensoft Propylheptyl BASF 2.00 Agent - Emolient Caprylate SkinConditioning Eutanol G Octyldodecanol BASF 3.00 Agent - Emolient SkinConditioning Lexol IPM Isopropyl Myristate Inolex 20.00 Agent - Emolient

-   -   (2) Light Oil Benchmark

Cyclotetrasiloxane, Cyclopentasiloxane, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate ArganiaSpinosa (Argan) Kernel Oil Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter CocosNucifera (Coconut) Oil Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil PhenylTrimethicone Fragrance (Parfum) Red 17 (CI 26100) Yellow 11 (CI 47000).

TREATMENT

a. Application modality

-   -   Panelists arrived at the study center with hair and scalp free        of any product.    -   Hair was parted to expose approximately 10 cm of scalp on both        the left and right side of the scalp.    -   Panelists acclimated to the conditions of the testing center for        30 minutes.    -   After the baseline measurement, tested product was applied. One        product was applied to the right site, and the other product was        applied to the left, in accordance with the randomization table.    -   0.25 ml of each product was dispersed evenly over the whole        application site. The product was massaged into the site for        approximately five seconds.    -   Panelists were instructed not to wash or wet their hair or        scalp, or apply any products to their hair or scalp between the        their baseline and 24 hour visit.

b. Study design

-   -   Double-blind test.    -   Randomized.    -   Comparative study.    -   Evolution of parameters was compared to prior to treatment (T₀)        (Control), and versus Light Oil Benchmark formulation.    -   Duration of treatment: 24 hours, with measurements immediately        (5 minutes) and 24 hours after application.

Evaluation Methods

DermaLab: SkinLab Hydration Probe

The DermaLab Skinlab Hydration Probe by Cortex Technology, Hadsund,Denmark, is an 8-pin probe designed to measure moisturization levels onthe skin and scalp. The pins of the probe allow the probe to achievegood contact with the skin of the scalp, avoiding the hair and resultingin a more accurate scalp moisture measurement. It uses alternatingcurrent to measure the conductance of the skin in microsiemens (μS). Theconductance of the skin is positively correlated to the moisture level.

Statistical Analysis

OGX Light Weight Oil Benchmark Dexter Light Weight Oil T1 T2 T1 D28 T0(5 min) (24 hr) T1 − T0 T2 − T0 T0 (5 min) (24 hr) T1 − T0 T2 − T0 Mean48.6 58.4 49.2 9.8 0.6 46.9 66.3 49.8 19.4 2.9 SD 17.3 34.5 17.4 24.88.0 18.9 47.9 20.0 36.7 16.8 SEM 3.0 6.0 3.0 4.3 1.4 3.3 8.3 3.5 6.4 2.9% T0 20.3% 1.3% 41.3% 6.1% Statistics/D0 0.000 0.654 0.000 0.468Statistics/PI 0.008 0.443 SD = standard deviation SEM = standard errorof the mean Statistics: Wilcoxon Signed Rank Test

Light Weight Oil Benchmark Light Weight Oil T1 T2 T1 D28 T0 (5 min) (24hr) T1 − T0 T2 − T0 T0 (5 min) (24 hr) T1 − T0 T2 − T0 Mean 48.6 58.449.2 9.8 0.6 46.9 66.3 49.8 19.4 2.9 SD 17.3 34.5 17.4 24.8 8.0 18.947.9 20.0 36.7 16.8 SEM 3.0 6.0 3.0 4.3 1.4 3.3 8.3 3.5 6.4 2.9 % T020.3% 1.3% 41.3% 6.1% Statistic 0.000 0.654 0.000 0.468 Statistic 0.0080.443 SD = standard deviation SEM = standard error of the meanStatistics: Wilcoxon Signed Rank Test

The statistical analysis of the evolution of the parameters as afunction of time has been done after the verification of the normalityof distribution using Shapiro-Wilk test.

The statistical analysis of the change in the studied parameters foreach product over time as well as the differences in the studiedparameters between the treatment groups were performed as follows:

-   -   Validation of the normality of the studied parameters: Paired        Student t Test    -   Invalidation of the normality of the studied parameters:        Wilcoxon Signed Rank Test

Results and Discussion

Tables 3 and 4 and FIG. 2 show the effect of Light Oil composition ofthe invention and Light Oil Benchmark on scalp moisturization.

Compared to the controls, both Light Oil composition of the inventionand Light Oil Benchmark showed significant increase in scalpmoisturization at 5 minutes (Immediately) after application, with 41.3%(p<0.05) and 20.3% increase, respectively.

Compared to Light Oil Benchmark, Light Oil composition of the inventionshowed 21.0% (p<0.05) more increase in scalp moisturization at 5 minutes(Immediately) after application.

These results indicated a better improvement in scalp moisturizationwith Light Oil composition of the invention than that of Light OilBenchmark at 5 minutes (immediately) after application.

TABLE 2 Scalp Moisturization Evaluated with DermaLab

indicates data missing or illegible when filed

Conclusion

Light Oil composition of the invention and Light Oil Benchmark showed asignificant increase in scalp moisturization at 5 minutes (immediately)after product application. Light Oil composition of the invention alsoshowed better improvement in scalp moisturization than that of Light OilBenchmark.

TABLE 3 Detailed Results of Scalp Moisturization by DermaLab LightWeight Oil Benchmark Light Weight Oil Base- Base- line 5 min 24 hr line5 min 24 hr Study ID Initials (T0) (T1) (T2) (T0) (T1) (T2) 1 RH 65.559.7 72.5 45.1 70.9 85.9 2 WC 41.8 49.3 44.0 44.7 56.3 51.2 3 AC 61.983.5 59.2 59.3 78.0 60.4 4 PP 59.5 66.6 64.9 60.5 66.9 53.8 5 AM 59.959.4 50.1 48.8 69.7 53.8 6 DC 35.9 27.0 32.4 17.3 18.0 21.0 7 DE 83.5225.0 81.8 93.9 304.5 96.2 8 MP 31.7 41.5 26.2 46.1 58.2 40.1 9 LF 42.044.1 47.8 50.3 63.1 37.5 10 MM 43.0 42.4 38.2 27.8 46.2 34.0 11 LR 50.962.5 56.5 73.0 69.4 34.4 12 LG 72.5 69.8 67.6 85.8 78.8 72.5 13 AB 33.544.4 37.3 53.1 79.4 45.0 14 JC 31.7 40.8 25.7 38.1 46.9 28.0 15 JT 49.950.4 45.9 40.7 40.5 35.4 16 KF 17.9 24.6 18.1 21.5 15.7 18.4 17 JJ 33.032.0 27.7 20.4 49.5 25.1 18 DM 60.3 58.3 54.6 47.6 63.7 84.3 19 MH 45.163.5 29.5 51.3 73.0 47.9 20 RD 90.7 101.8 83.4 77.5 97.4 55.6 22 AM 34.055.5 51.1 27.9 45.2 39.8 23 NS 56.5 52.6 58.6 58.7 58.7 43.6 24 LB 28.135.4 36.9 35.2 51.4 38.2 25 PC 50.8 53.6 57.2 53.5 53.4 51.4 26 DC 71.479.4 82.9 55.6 108.0 57.0 27 RP 69.6 68.7 69.2 73.0 111.3 77.6 29 PB61.5 78.9 59.0 31.6 50.9 34.2 30 RF 31.8 38.8 41.3 22.0 30.0 33.3 31 KP37.1 43.8 39.2 38.0 44.5 47.5 32 LJ 29.7 36.9 53.9 48.8 50.4 93.7 33 RP33.9 33.2 28.4 27.0 46.0 49.8 34 KM 45.3 46.5 42.0 36.3 58.5 54.0 35 JW44.1 58.6 41.3 37.7 33.1 42.0 Average 48.6 58.4 49.2 46.9 66.3 49.8 SD17.3 34.5 17.4 18.9 47.9 20.0 SEM 3.0 6.0 3.0 3.3 8.3 3.5

TABLE 4 Light Weight Oil Benchmark Light Weight Oil Study ID InitialT1-T0 T2-T0 T1-T0 T2-T0 1 RH −5.8 7.0 25.8 40.7 2 WC 7.5 2.2 11.6 6.5 3AC 21.7 −2.6 18.6 1.1 4 PP 7.1 5.4 6.4 −6.7 5 AM −0.5 −9.8 21.0 5.0 6 DC−8.9 −3.5 0.7 3.7 7 DE 141.5 −1.7 210.6 2.3 8 MP 9.8 −5.5 12.1 −6.0 9 LF2.1 5.8 12.8 −12.8 10 MM −0.6 −4.8 18.4 6.2 11 LR 11.6 5.6 −3.6 −38.6 12LG −2.7 −4.9 −7.0 −13.3 13 AB 10.9 3.8 26.2 −8.1 14 JC 9.1 −6.0 8.8−10.0 15 JT 0.5 −4.1 −0.2 −5.4 16 KF 6.7 0.3 −5.8 −3.1 17 JJ −1.0 −5.429.1 4.7 18 DM −2.0 −5.7 16.1 36.7 19 MH 18.4 −15.6 21.6 −3.5 20 RD 11.1−7.3 19.9 −21.9 22 AM 21.5 17.1 17.3 11.9 23 NS −3.9 2.1 0.0 −15.1 24 LB7.3 8.8 16.2 3.0 25 PC 2.9 6.4 0.0 −2.1 26 DC 8.1 11.6 52.3 1.3 27 RP−0.9 −0.4 38.3 4.6 29 PB 17.4 −2.5 19.3 2.7 30 RF 7.1 9.6 8.0 11.3 31 KP6.8 2.2 6.5 9.5 32 LJ 7.2 24.2 1.6 44.9 33 RP −0.7 −5.5 19.0 22.8 34 KM1.2 −3.3 22.2 17.7 35 JW 14.5 −2.8 −4.6 4.3 Average 9.8 0.6 19.4 2.9 SD24.8 8.0 36.7 16.8 SEM 4.3 1.4 6.4 2.9

Overall Performance

Light Oil composition of the invention was compared to Light OilBenchmark. In Summary Light Oil composition of the invention,

-   -   Has superior sensory performance in comparison to Light Oil        Benchmark in providing good substantivity and moisturization on        both bleached hair and Brazilian curly hair. Additionally, it        provides significantly more smoothness and strongly preferred on        Brazilian curly hair    -   Provided significantly long-lasting shine over Light Oil        Benchmark    -   Exhibited excellent anti-fizz benefits when compared to Light        Oil Benchmark and holds significantly better definition of the        curls even after exposure to high humidity    -   Imparted significantly better smoothness/suppleness over Light        Oil Benchmark which agrees with sensory evaluation    -   Provided significantly lower hair breakage and less split-ends        when compared to Light Oil Benchmark

Sensory Evaluation

Preparation of Hair Tresses

Hair tresses used for this study were 2 g/15 cm, medium bleached (5%hydrogen peroxide, pH ˜9.43 for 15 minutes) caucasian dark brown hairand virgin Brazilian curly hair. All the tresses were pre-cleansed with12% sodium laureth sulfate (SLES), pH 6.5 prior to the sensoryevaluation. All assessments were performed in an air-conditioned roomwith a temperature of 21±1° C. and relative humidity of 50±3%.

Product Treatment

Each hair tress was wet for 30 sec (1 ltr/min at 35° C.) and then driedto approximately 30% residual water content. 50 μl of the oil wasmassaged onto the hair from root to tip and combed once for evendistribution. After applying the oils, the treated hair strands weretested in a pairwise comparison using thirteen trained panelists. Everypanelist was given their own pair of the hair tresses (Reference/TestProduct) for comparison.

After Wet hair assessment, every tress was combed three times withcoarse side of the comb. Hair was dried for 1 hour at 50° C. after whichhair was assessed for dry hair properties.

Sensory Assessment

Parameters assed for Wet and Dry hair properties are listed below:

Wet Hair Properties assessed:

-   -   Combing with Coarse Side (1×)    -   Combing with Fine Side (3×)    -   Shine    -   Coated (Substantive)    -   Residues (Weightless)    -   Slip    -   Oiliness    -   Acceptance

Dry Hair Properties assessed:

-   -   Care before Combing (Visual)    -   Volume before Combing (Visual)    -   Frizz before Combing (Visual)    -   Shine before Combing (Visual)    -   Combing with Coarse Side (1×)    -   Combing with Fine Side (3×)    -   Volume after Combing    -   Frizz after Combing    -   Shine after Combing    -   Oiliness (Visual)    -   Oiliness    -   Residues (Weightless)    -   Coasted (Substantive)    -   Glide    -   Softness    -   Smoothness    -   Suppleness    -   Moisturized    -   Care Feel    -   Acceptance

Shine

Preparation of Hair Tresses

Hair tresses used for this method were 1″ inch wide, 3 g/15 cm mediumbleached (5% hydrogen peroxide, pH ˜9.43 for 15 minutes) caucasian darkbrown hair. All the tresses were pre-cleansed with 12% SLES, pH 6.5prior to the test. All assessments were performed in an air-conditionedroom with a temperature of 21±1° C. and relative humidity of 50±3%.

Product Treatment

200 μl (0.2 ml) of oil was applied for each hair tress. Oil was massagedonto the hair from root to tip and combed through for uniformdistribution.

SAMBA System

SAMBA Hair system from Bossa Nova Vision, Los Angeles, Calif., was usedto measure shine on hair tresses. The system acquires images in paralleland crossed polarization state. Bossa Nova Technology Formula (LBNT) wasused to evaluate shine (Lefaudeux et al., Third Annual Conference onApplied Hair Science, September 2008,http://www.spequation.com/files/journal-of-cosmetic-science-bossa-nova-tech-60-153-169-march-april-2009_5b45fb50b1be0.pdf):

${LBNT} = \frac{Sin}{\left( {D + {Sout}} \right) \times {Wvisual}}$

D: is the total amount of diffused light

Sin: corresponds to the peak of specular light and contributes toincrease in shine

Sout: corresponds to the wings of the specular light and contributes todecrease in shine

Wvisual: is the visual width of the distribution

Nine (9) hair tresses were measured for each oil tested. Each tress iscombed to realign the fibers and then placed on the combing cylinder tomake the measurement. 5 replicated measurements are taken for everytress. This process is first done to get untreated values and thenrepeated after oil application. Shine measurements were takenimmediately after treatment, after 1 hour, and after 24 hours.Percentage change in luster is calculated using the formula below

${\%\mspace{14mu}{Change}\mspace{14mu}{in}\mspace{14mu}{Luster}} = {\frac{L_{Treated} - L_{untreated}}{L_{untreated}}*100}$

Anti-frizz

Preparation of Hair Tresses

Mulatto curly 8″ long rounded hair tresses were used for this method.All the tresses were pre-cleansed with 12% SLES, pH 6.5 prior to thetest.

Product Treatment

Each hair tress was wet for 30 sec (1 ltr/min at 35° C.), tresses werethen combed and squeezed between two fingers to approximately 67%residual water content. 100 μl hair oil was applied on each damp tresswith dyeing brush. After the application, tresses were then hung in arack to dry overnight at 23° C. and 45% RH

Frizz Volume

Each hair tress is hung in the volume-box by using a motorized hook.Once the software is initiated for every measurement, the hook turns in72° steps. Five images are taken by a camera and the software calculatesFrizz volume [cm3] from the images captured. FIG. 3 shows the imagingsoftware. The region of interest for frizz volume is indicated inmagenta color and volume is indicated in yellow.

Measurements are taken after drying (before combing), after combing withfine comb and after exposing the hair tresses to high humidity (1 hconditioning in a climate cabinet at 22° C./90% RH) for both thetreatments.

Suppleness/Smoothness

Preparation of Hair Tresses

Mulatto curly 8″ long rounded hair tresses after frizz measurements wereconditioned at 40% RH/22 ° C.

Suppleness

Evaluation of maximum and mean resistance force to pull hair the strandsthrough the loops using Zwick Machine was measured as shown in FIG. 4.

Anti-breakage

Preparation of Hair Tresses

Ten hair tresses (medium-dark brown Caucasian hair 12 cm/1 g) per samplewere cleansed by incubation in 6% sodium lauryl ether sulfate (ac), pH6.5, for 15 minutes, followed by rinsing and submerging three times inwater for two minutes each. Finally, hair tresses were dried for 30minutes hanging in a flow of warm air (approximately 55° C.). Thepreparation described was done by an automated system.

Product Treatment

Wet hair tresses were treated with the formulation (0.50 μl product per1 g hair). Hair tresses were dried for one hour lying on a grid above afan blowing hot air (approximately 68° C.). After preparation, the hairstrands were equilibrated for at least five hours at 30° C. and 40%relative humidity in the box of the automated combing device.

Repeated Combing of Hair Strands

Hair tresses were combed 50,000 times (at 45 rpm). All evaluations wereconducted at 30° C. and 40% relative humidity using an automated combingdevice as shown in FIG. 3.

After 50,000 combing strokes broken hair fibers were collected indrawers. Fibers longer than the diameter of the petri dish (about 9 cm)were sorted out, and the remaining fibers were weighed as shown in (FIG.4). Hair breakage is quantified as ratio of weight of broken fibers toweight of the whole hair strand.

${{Hair}\mspace{14mu}{{breakage}\lbrack\%\rbrack}} = \frac{{Weight}\mspace{14mu}{of}\mspace{14mu}{broken}\mspace{14mu}{{hair}\mspace{11mu}\lbrack g\rbrack}}{{Weight}\mspace{14mu}{of}\mspace{14mu}{complete}\mspace{14mu}{hair}\mspace{14mu}{{strand}\mspace{14mu}\lbrack g\rbrack}}$

Split-ends

Images of hair strands after 50,000 combing strokes were characterizedusing Hirox KW-8700 digital microscope for split-ends at 500 μm and 1000μm magnification.

Statistics

Sensory Evaluation

To evaluate the sensory data, the medians for each parameter arecalculated, as well as the average absolute deviation from the median asa measure of the variation of the individual values for each criterion.To calculate the statistical significance of a pair-wise comparison, theWilcoxon test is carried out. In the charts, the position of the symbolindicates the median, and the average absolute deviation from the medianis transformed into the weighted deviation from the median and shown inthe chart in the form of shifted lines.

Shine/Anti-Frizz/Suppleness/Anti-Breaking

Tukey's test was employed to compare difference between the products forall the methods except sensory evaluation. Tukey's test is a single-stepmultiple comparison procedure and statistical test used in conjunctionwith an ANOVA (analysis of variance) to find which means aresignificantly different from one another. The test compares the means ofevery treatment to the means of every other treatment. It is appliedsimultaneously to the set of all pair wise comparisons and identifieswhere the difference between two means is greater than the standarderror expected to allow. The threshold of the test is the HSD-range(Honestly Significant Difference).

The HSD-range is determined by the signal-to-noise ratio, and the numberof measurements. The difference between two samples must be greater thanthe calculated HSD value to be significantly different at a 95%probability (P=0.05).

Results and Discussion

Sensory

FIG. 5 (a) (b) and FIG. 6 (a) (b) shows the sensory comparison of LightOil composition of the invention and Light Oil Benchmark on Mediumbleached Caucasian and Brazilian curly Hair in wet and dry staterespectively

Light Oil composition of the invention performance in comparison toLight Oil Benchmark from FIGS. 5a and 5 b:

-   -   showed significantly less frizz before and after combing in dry        state    -   displayed significantly more shine in wet and dry state.    -   significantly more substantive in wet and dry state    -   significantly more moisturized in dry state    -   showed significantly less weightless feel in both wet and dry        state    -   significantly less volume on hair in dry state

Light Oil composition of the invention performance in comparison toLight Oil Benchmark from FIGS. 6a and 6 b:

-   -   showed significantly less frizz before and after combing in dry        state    -   displayed significantly more shine in wet and dry state.    -   significantly more substantive in both wet and dry state    -   significantly more smooth and supple in dry state    -   significantly made hair more moisturized and strongly preferred        in dry state    -   showed significantly less weightless feel in both wet and dry        state    -   significantly less volume on hair in dry state

Shine

FIGS. 7 and 8 shows the percentage change in luster comparing Light Oilcomposition of the invention and Light Oil Benchmark at different timepoints and visual shine comparison after 24 hrs, respectively.

Results showed:

-   -   Light Oil composition of the invention shows significantly        higher shine immediately after application and provides long        lasting shine up to 24 hours when compared to Light Oil        Benchmark.    -   Higher luster from Light Oil composition of the invention is        apparent to the naked eye even after 24 hours as show in FIG. 8.

Anti-frizz

FIGS. 9 and 10 show frizz volume comparing Light Oil composition of theinvention and Light Oil Benchmark at different treatment conditions andvisual comparison of the hair tresses between the oil treatmentsrespectively.

Results showed:

-   -   Frizz-volume of Light Oil composition of the invention is        significantly lower than Light Oil Benchmark at every condition    -   Light Oil composition of the invention holds significantly        better definition of the curls even after exposure to high        humidity.

Suppleness/smoothness

FIG. 11 shows Fmax (Maximum Force) and Fmean (Mean Force) to pull hairtresses through Zwick comparison between Light Oil composition of theinvention and Light Oil Benchmark.

Results showed:

-   -   Smoothness/Suppleness of hair strands treated with Light Oil        composition of the invention is significantly better than Light        Oil Benchmark as indicated by Lower combing forces.

Anti-breakage

FIG. 12 and FIG. 13 shows hair breakage [%] and split-ends comparisonbetween Light Oil composition of the invention and Light Oil Benchmark,respectively.

Results showed:

-   -   Both Light Oil Benchmark and Light Oil composition of the        invention significantly reduced hair breakage when compared to        the untreated hair strands. Hair breakage produced by the        strands treated with Light Oil composition of the invention was        significantly lower in comparison to the Light Oil Benchmark.    -   Split-end quantification indicates that Light Oil composition of        the invention shows less split-ends when compared to Light Oil        Benchmark.

ADDITIONAL EXAMPLES

After several iterations, the following formulations were selected forcomparison testing:

Penetrating Oil Composition of the Invention

Penetrating Oil Penetrating Oil Composition of the INCI Trade NameBenchmark Invention Cyclotetrasiloxane XIAMETER PMX-0244 35.00 N/A FluidCyclopentasiloxane XIAMETER PMX 1501 60.50 N/A (and) Dimethiconol FluidIsopropyl Myristate Isopropyl Myristate N/A 22.42 Dimethiconol in a lowXIAMETER PMX-1503 N/A 73.08 viscosity dimethicone Fluid fluid C12-15Alkyl Benzoate Finsolv TN 2.50 2.50 Argania Spinosa (Argan) RITA ArganOil 1.50 1.50 Kernel Oil Fragrance Fragrance 0.50 0.50 Total 100.00100.00

Serum Composition of the Invention

OGX Nourishing + DOW EXP-19-CB0327-2 Coconut Milk Anti- (equivalent toDexter Serum INCI Trade Name Breakage Serum (91008) F#13589-127)Cyclotetrasiloxane XIAMETER PMX-0244 32.51 N/A Fluid Cyclopentasiloxane(and) XIAMETER PMX 1501 33.37 N/A Dimethiconol Fluid DimethiconeXIAMETER PMX-200 N/A 25.56 Fluid, 5 cst Dimethiconol in a low XIAMETERPMX-1503 N/A 40.32 viscosity Dimethicone fluid Fluid C12-15 AlkylBenzoate Finsolv TN 1.00 1.00 Fragrance Fragrance 0.12 0.12 DimethiconeXiameter PMX 200 fl 350 33.00 33.00 cst; Ritasil 200 350 cst Total100.00 100.00

Visual Comparison of Coated Hair Swatches

Prior to initialization testing 0.15 gm of sample/1 gram of hair wasapplied for each product and visually compared for evidence of oilyresidue or heaviness and pictures taken for comparison.

FIGS. 14a and 14b show that black hair tresses showed slight but notsignificant differences (likely due to differences in the volatilecontent of the formulations).

Frizz Control (Caucasian, Textured Hair)

Samples of frizzy black hair tresses were initially washed with a 1%sodium lauryl sulfate solution and treated with 0.4 gm treatment of theBenchmark or compositions of the invention per 2 gram tress (0.8 gramfor 4 gram tress). These were allowed to dry for 18-24 hours and sampleswere placed at room temperature (25° C.) and high humidity (80%) for 24hours and pictures taken at 0 hour, 4 hour, 8 hour, and the 24 hourtimepoint (3 samples/test). FIGS. 15a-15d show that for samples offrizzy black hair, tresses were comparable.

Combing (Dry Combing Only)

1. Penetrating Oil composition of the invention vs Penetrating OilBenchmark

2. Serum composition of the invention vs Serum Benchmark

Antibreakage (Resistance to Breakage Caused by Brushing and Styling)

Description: After treating, drying overnight, and acclimating totesting environment of 50% humidity and 23° C., hair tresses are weighedon an analytical scale to the fourth decimal. Hair is then fastened to astationary rack in front of a cylinder with four combs attached. Thecylinder rolls, pulling the combs through the hair at twenty RPM, withone rotation equaling four combing strokes, hair is run through 2500cycles totaling 10,000 strokes. Hair is then removed and weighed onanalytical balance to determine amount of hair lost.

Shine

Bossa Nova SAMBA Hair System test is used to determine the amount ofluster coming from hair tresses treated with hair care formulations.

Treatment: 0.3 gm on a 2.5 gram tress. Dried overnight at 50% humidityand RT. Measured using an Bossa Nova SAMBA Hair System.

Tress Prep

-   -   Rinse hair 15 s    -   Apply for 30 s        -   For Leave-On-apply 0.3-0.4 g/2 g tress, and do not rinse off        -   For Rinse out-apply 0.8g/2 g tress and rinse off for 30s    -   Let hair dry overnight.

Volume Down (for a more managed look) was assessed for the following:

-   -   1. Penetrating Oil composition of the invention vs Penetrating        Oil Benchmark    -   2. Serum composition of the invention vs Serum Benchmark

FIGS. 20a and 20b show that the compositions of the invention werecomparable with “volume down” but had a slightly heavier appearance ascompared to the respective benchmarks.

Friction Testing (CoF, Moisturization) was assessed on a Dia-stron hairfriction instrument, Dia-stron Ltd., Andover, UK, for the following bothwith the cuticle and against the cuticle:

-   -   1. Penetrating Oil composition of the invention vs Penetrating        Oil Benchmark    -   2. Serum composition of the invention vs Serum Benchmark

Treatment: 0.1 g/g on slightly bleached hair

Product Stability

Penetrating Oil composition of the invention and Serum composition ofthe invention were placed on stability.

1. Samples of each composition were placed in glass under nominalambient (i.e., 25° C./60% RH) and accelerated (45° C., 50oC/75% RH)storage conditions for 3-4 months. Additional samples were alsosubjected to freeze/thaw stability testing. No visible separation orsyneresis was observed in any of the samples during this time.

Overall performance of the Penetrating Oil and Serum compositions of theinvention were comparable to respective benchmarks, with the followingobservations:

The compositions of the invention perform at par or superior tobenchmark by providing moisturized and substantive feel, long lastingshine, reduced frizz, and reduced hair breakage and split-ends.

It will be understood that, while various aspects of the presentdisclosure have been illustrated and described by way of example, theinvention claimed herein is not limited thereto, but may be otherwisevariously embodied according to the scope of the claims presented inthis and/or any derivative patent application.

1. A leave-on penetrating oil hair composition that comprises a blend ofnon-cyclic silicone and non-silicone ingredients, wherein said leave-onpenetrating oil hair composition comprises from about 30% to about 80%of said non-cyclic silicone ingredients.
 2. The leave-on penetrating oilhair composition, wherein the non-cyclic silicone ingredient isdimethicone.
 3. The leave-on penetrating oil hair composition, whereinthe non-silicone ingredients are selected from the group consisting of:C₁₂₋₁₅ alkyl benzoate; coco-caprylate caprate; isododecene; isopropylmyristate; and octyldodecanol; propylheptyl caprylate.
 4. The leave-onpenetrating oil hair composition of claim 1, wherein said composition isfree of cyclic silicone ingredients.
 5. A method for controlling frizzof hair comprising applying the leave-on penetrating oil haircomposition of claim 1 to said hair.
 6. A method for styling haircomprising applying the leave-on penetrating oil hair composition ofclaim 1 to said hair.
 7. A method for preventing damage of hair fromsurfactants comprising applying the leave-on penetrating oil haircomposition of claim 1 to said hair.
 8. A method for promoting a healthyscalp of hair comprising applying the leave-on penetrating oil haircomposition of claim 1 to said hair.
 9. A method for moisturizing hairand scalp comprising applying the leave-on penetrating oil haircomposition of claim 1 to said hair and scalp.
 10. A method forincreasing breakage resistance of hair comprising applying the leave-onpenetrating oil hair composition of claim 1 to said hair.
 11. A methodfor increasing shine of hair comprising applying the leave-onpenetrating oil hair composition of claim 1 to said hair.
 12. A methodfor increasing volume of hair comprising applying the leave-onpenetrating oil hair composition of claim 1 to said hair.
 13. A methodfor reducing split ends of hair comprising applying the leave-onpenetrating oil hair composition of claim 1 to said hair.
 14. A methodfor increasing curl definition of hair comprising applying the leave-onpenetrating oil hair composition of claim 1 to said hair.